What is butting? Breaking down the Tribe Triple-butted Frame 4130 Chromoly Steel Frame

October 01, 2014 2 Comments

Triple Butted 4130 Chromoly Steel Frame

To reduce weight and improve overall performance, skilled bicycle manufacturers often choose to butt the bicycle's tubing in the frameButting is the process of removing extra material from where it is not needed. The manufacturer in turn leaves the frame untouched in the areas where it endures the most stress, for instance the joints, leaving the amount of material the same in order to insure long term strength and durability.

This type of internal frame butting isn't usually noticeable from the exterior, but with a trained ear you can  tell which frames have been butted and which haven't. Here's a tip: use your nail to flick the top tube of your frame 2 inches from the seat tube weld, then use your nail to flick the center of the tube. If you can hear a considerable difference then you've got the ear! If it's butted then the center should have a more hollow sound then the welded joint area. Below is a diagram that shows the different variations of butting.


Most people will agree that butted frames make better bicycles. The difference in thinning the tube is that it provides a livelier, less stiff ride, and significantly reduces the overall weight of the bike. There are three degrees of butted frames, as shown in the picture above, with the better of the three being triple-butted. All of Tribe Bicycle Co. CRMO Series frames have been triple butted, making your bike super light. We also use 4130 Chromoly Steel, noted as one of the best materials in the industry, further adding to the strength and durability of the bicycle. Check out our CRMO Series to see the bikes and learn more!


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2 Responses


June 23, 2016

And quad butted is even better, especially when it’s a lugged frame. I have a triple butted 1986 Fuji Valite frame. Colnago is making a frame from leftover 80’s frame lugs, $ 3,995 for the frame only, built with Shimano or Campagnolo components, sells for between $5,100 and $ 9,300 depending upon the component group. As long as my frame holds up, I may just convert it to 700c, spead the rear dropouts at the axle and put in a 2×10 or 2×11 crank & cassette ? Really nothing wrong with the bike that modern gearing wouldn’t breathe new life into ? I think swapping to a race 12-22 6 speed to replace the recreational 14-30 6 speed is really all it needs without any more conversion to do it as cheaply as possible ?


May 19, 2016

Appreciate you sharing, great forum post.Really looking forward to read more. Panias

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